Your Guide to Rock Climbing in Eldorado Canyon State Park

September 18th, 2018 by

woman Rock Climbing

If you’re the outdoorsy type, Boulder, Colorado is paradise, offering everything from hiking trails to rock climbing. One of the best rock climbing spots statewide and nationwide is Eldorado Canyon State Park. It’s located about 20 minutes south of Boulder in Eldorado Springs. Countless American climbers have made the journey here, specifically to conquer Redgarden Wall. Learn more about this popular spot below!

Directions to Eldorado Canyon State Park

If you’re visiting Eldorado Canyon State Park from Boulder, CO, take the following route:

  • Take CO Hwy 93 (Broadway) South until you reach the first stop light outside Boulder
  • Take Eldorado Springs Dr. west to the town of Eldorado Springs
  • Look for the park entrance at the end of the dirt road leading into town
  • Pay the entry fee for your car (free on Colorado Day)

Good Climbing Spots in Eldorado Canyon State Park

The park’s largest crag is Redgarden Wall—a renowned climbing spot that’s a few thousand feet wide. Excellent protection, route-finding, and verve skills are musts for climbers who wish to tackle this spot. Classic climbing routes at Redgarden Wall include Rebuffat’s Arete (5.7), The Yellow Spur (5.9+), Super Slab (5.10+), and Vertigo (5.11b).

Great beginners’ routes include The Bomb (5.4), Breezy (5.5), Calypso (5.6), and Wind Ridge (5.6) on Wind Tower. The Wind Tower is divided into south and southwest faces. The southwest face is one of the best areas for those in search of a casual climb, and offers a wide variety of climbing routes that are relatively low-difficulty. The vertical south face is considerably more challenging, usually attracting only experienced climbers.

Climbing Regulations to Consider

Here are few important regulations to keep in mind when climbing in Eldorado Canyon State Park:

  • The park closes at dusk
  • Removing or placing fixed climbing hardware requires a permit
  • Pets must be leashed at all times and picked up after
  • Commercial use photography, filming, and climbing instruction/guiding) requires a permit
  • Stay on hiking trails to avoid erosion
  • Climbing routes are first-come, first-serve

Colorado Parks & Wildlife offers a full list of safety guidelines and climbing ethics for visitors to Eldorado Canyon State Park. Be sure to check it out!

Learn More About Local Attractions from Fisher Acura in Boulder!

Fisher Acura is your local resource for things to do in Boulder, CO, as well as events and attractions around Boulder and Aurora. Contact us with questions, whether you’re curious about great Acura vehicles for rock climbers or our new vehicle specials!

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